Comments on: This is Bolex Stereo http://www.kylegilman.net/2009/02/18/this-is-bolex-stereo/ Sat, 04 Feb 2012 18:35:01 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: John http://www.kylegilman.net/2009/02/18/this-is-bolex-stereo/comment-page-1/#comment-100862 John Fri, 28 Oct 2011 08:27:05 +0000 http://www.kylegilman.net/?p=538#comment-100862 kyle Bolex made 2 Projection lens. One of the lenses(type G) was made to fit or go into a Bolex projector. The other was a universal fit lens ( type S ) that had adapter sleeves for different brands of projectors. These sleves screwed on from the back of the lens and shimmed the lens to a larger diameter so that it would fit the cavity of the projector with out too much slop.I use an S1 sleve to fit my Bell&Howell 273 . The projector/lens should be approxmatly 10 ft. from your silver lienticural screen .The takeing lens is set at a universal focus of 10 feet to infinity .Although after 20 ft. there is little depth . Less than 10 ft.will have strong stereo effect . The fancy takeing lens (stereo closeup devise ) is a rotateable closeup prisms setup that could do normal and closeups. Closeups lens fall into three ranges ,white dot is normal 4ft to 20 ft. , blue dot 28 in.to 7 ft. ,and black dot 18 in. to 34 in. normal use film is shot at 10 ft., ,40 in. , or 24 in. Also never run the projector lamp through the stereo lens without film , or the polorisors could be damaged. Check your camera, if it is a Bolex see if it has a filter holder behind the lens seat. if it does you will have to ream the hole bigger in the filter so the stereo lens can seat properly. Youu can damage the lens by just running it down. check first. Try http://www.bolexcollector.com/ kyle Bolex made 2 Projection lens. One of the lenses(type G) was made to fit or go into a Bolex projector. The other was a universal fit lens ( type S ) that had adapter sleeves for different brands of projectors. These sleves screwed on from the back of the lens and shimmed the lens to a larger diameter so that it would fit the cavity of the projector with out too much slop.I use an S1 sleve to fit my Bell&Howell 273 . The projector/lens should be approxmatly 10 ft. from your silver lienticural screen .The takeing lens is set at a universal focus of 10 feet to infinity .Although after 20 ft. there is little depth . Less than 10 ft.will have strong stereo effect . The fancy takeing lens (stereo closeup devise ) is a rotateable closeup prisms setup that could do normal and closeups. Closeups lens fall into three ranges ,white dot is normal 4ft to 20 ft. , blue dot 28 in.to 7 ft. ,and black dot 18 in. to 34 in. normal use film is shot at 10 ft., ,40 in. , or 24 in. Also never run the projector lamp through the stereo lens without film , or the polorisors could be damaged. Check your camera, if it is a Bolex see if it has a filter holder behind the lens seat. if it does you will have to ream the hole bigger in the filter so the stereo lens can seat properly. Youu can damage the lens by just running it down. check first. Try http://www.bolexcollector.com/

]]> By: Matt http://www.kylegilman.net/2009/02/18/this-is-bolex-stereo/comment-page-1/#comment-99444 Matt Mon, 09 May 2011 21:10:46 +0000 http://www.kylegilman.net/?p=538#comment-99444 Hey there! It seems like this conversation ended a few years ago, but thought I'd comment. I shoot 3D slides (still photos) using a Stereo Realist, and several years ago for my senior project, I thought it would be fun to try the Bolex lens. I bought one on ebay and, with the help of my film teacher, we were able to get it functioning. Unfortunately, there were many snafus and the resulting film was un-watchable (a big problem was getting images in focus since the lens was fixed focus), but in theory it should have worked. Projection was a major nightmare - the polarizers were deteriorating and we had to try to replace them, but it was almost impossible to get them to line up correctly. Also, the resulting image, because of the way the film splits up the frames, is about the size of a door (extremely long and narrow). It was a fun experiment - one day, I'll try it again (I still have the lenses). Of course, processing 16mm film is getting harder and more expensive every year (haven't done any 16mm myself for several years, either stereo or flat). Wish I had more technical expertise, but I relied strongly upon my film teacher and some very nice gentlemen from the LA 3-D club who I corresponded with by e-mail. They produced a DVD a few years ago of amateur films made by their members, including some shot with the Bolex system. If you wanted to try it, I would get in touch with some of them. A few of their members were using the system when it first came out! http://la3dclub.com/ Good luck! Hey there!

It seems like this conversation ended a few years ago, but thought I’d comment. I shoot 3D slides (still photos) using a Stereo Realist, and several years ago for my senior project, I thought it would be fun to try the Bolex lens. I bought one on ebay and, with the help of my film teacher, we were able to get it functioning. Unfortunately, there were many snafus and the resulting film was un-watchable (a big problem was getting images in focus since the lens was fixed focus), but in theory it should have worked. Projection was a major nightmare – the polarizers were deteriorating and we had to try to replace them, but it was almost impossible to get them to line up correctly. Also, the resulting image, because of the way the film splits up the frames, is about the size of a door (extremely long and narrow). It was a fun experiment – one day, I’ll try it again (I still have the lenses). Of course, processing 16mm film is getting harder and more expensive every year (haven’t done any 16mm myself for several years, either stereo or flat).

Wish I had more technical expertise, but I relied strongly upon my film teacher and some very nice gentlemen from the LA 3-D club who I corresponded with by e-mail. They produced a DVD a few years ago of amateur films made by their members, including some shot with the Bolex system. If you wanted to try it, I would get in touch with some of them. A few of their members were using the system when it first came out!

http://la3dclub.com/

Good luck!

]]> By: Andrew http://www.kylegilman.net/2009/02/18/this-is-bolex-stereo/comment-page-1/#comment-95735 Andrew Tue, 11 Aug 2009 09:28:54 +0000 http://www.kylegilman.net/?p=538#comment-95735 When it comes to projection you could do as our stereo club does and put your filters in front of the projection lens. You will probably have to remove the old filters. I'm assuming they are not a coating on the lens but a drop-in type. You can get polarizing filters for projectors through any one of several 3D stereo dealers online (you can also get the glasses through them as well). The filters are generally notched on one corner so you can orient them properly. Make a frame out of cardboard large enough to accommodate both filters side by side, mount the filters in the frame and then hang or stand them in front of the lens. All that is required is that the light passes through the polarizers. They can be in back of, inside, or in front of the lens. White glass bead screens tend to scatter the light, ruining the polarization. I do know some people who have painted a wall or canvas with metallic silver acrylic latex paint and and had good luck projecting onto that. If you go that route, either spray it on or be sure to roll or brush the paint in one direction only (vertically) as the paint is 'directional' and shows every brush stroke or swipe with the roller. Used silver screens aren't that hard to find. Craigslist is a good source. I wish I had one of those Bolexes!!! You're a lucky man! When it comes to projection you could do as our stereo club does and put your filters in front of the projection lens. You will probably have to remove the old filters. I’m assuming they are not a coating on the lens but a drop-in type. You can get polarizing filters for projectors through any one of several 3D stereo dealers online (you can also get the glasses through them as well). The filters are generally notched on one corner so you can orient them properly. Make a frame out of cardboard large enough to accommodate both filters side by side, mount the filters in the frame and then hang or stand them in front of the lens. All that is required is that the light passes through the polarizers. They can be in back of, inside, or in front of the lens.

White glass bead screens tend to scatter the light, ruining the polarization. I do know some people who have painted a wall or canvas with metallic silver acrylic latex paint and and had good luck projecting onto that. If you go that route, either spray it on or be sure to roll or brush the paint in one direction only (vertically) as the paint is ‘directional’ and shows every brush stroke or swipe with the roller. Used silver screens aren’t that hard to find. Craigslist is a good source.

I wish I had one of those Bolexes!!! You’re a lucky man!

]]> By: Jazz http://www.kylegilman.net/2009/02/18/this-is-bolex-stereo/comment-page-1/#comment-95498 Jazz Sun, 14 Jun 2009 03:40:28 +0000 http://www.kylegilman.net/?p=538#comment-95498 have you any idea what a unit like this is worth? I acquired one with a Bolex 16mm cam with the stereo lens attached a few years ago for $50 and I'm trying to appraise it. Any feedback is appreciated. have you any idea what a unit like this is worth? I acquired one with a Bolex 16mm cam with the stereo lens attached a few years ago for $50 and I’m trying to appraise it. Any feedback is appreciated.

]]> By: Jack Honeycutt http://www.kylegilman.net/2009/02/18/this-is-bolex-stereo/comment-page-1/#comment-95091 Jack Honeycutt Mon, 20 Apr 2009 23:03:59 +0000 http://www.kylegilman.net/?p=538#comment-95091 Hi..... Kodak makes a color reversal film called 100D: http://motion.kodak.com/US/en/motion/Products/Production/Color_Reversal_Films/5285/tech5285.htm Kodak just started offering it in 100' loads that your Bolex will take: http://motion.kodak.com/motion/uploadedFiles/QA_MotionPictureCatalog_March9_2009.pdf I like to buy direct from Kodak (they have a 800 number) because you receive fresh film. But you can probably find film other places. I have shot some 100D and I like it (liked kodachrome better). I have seen 16mm 3D film shot with your equipment (well, not *yours*, but the Bolex set up). The 3D effect is outstanding. The film I saw was shot in the late 1950s or early 1960s and was shot using Kodachrome II. The 3D effect was awesome!!!!! Head to your local Goodwill store and find a screen. You will see white ones, and silver (or kinda gray ones). That is the one you want. But worse case, you can project your film on a white wall. Keep checking the goodwill and you will find a screen. The best 3D effect is with the proper screen, but you will be able to see 3D with a normal white screen (but not as pronounced). I have many 16mm projectors. I will sell you one if you want, but shipping is costly. Keep checking the Goodwill for a projector. I can help you find a lamp for just about any projector you buy., Many of the lenses are standard sizes. Probably, any 'ol 16mm projector will do. When you do find a projector, head to the store and buy some Lemon Pledge furniture polish. Then take a old cotton T Shirt or some old cotton underwear and spray the cloth (not the projector), then open up the gate and wipe down the entire film path. You will probably find some rollers with a screw in the center. Unscrew them, remove them, clean them, then rub some pledge on them. Every guide, every place the film goes. Remember, every time you project your film you will scratch it. Back in the day, Kodak said you had about 200 projections before the film would be scratched up beyond repair. So don't just keep running your film for no reason at all. If you are new to 16mm movie film you might like this free pdf book from Kodak: http://motion.kodak.com/motion/uploadedFiles/H2_Field%20Guide_9-22-08.pdf Feel free to drop me some email if you have movie film related questions. Enjoy your equipment. jack And like every other person posting here Hi…..

Kodak makes a color reversal film called 100D:

http://motion.kodak.com/US/en/motion/Products/Production/Color_Reversal_Films/5285/tech5285.htm

Kodak just started offering it in 100′ loads that your Bolex will take:

http://motion.kodak.com/motion/uploadedFiles/QA_MotionPictureCatalog_March9_2009.pdf

I like to buy direct from Kodak (they have a 800 number) because you receive fresh film. But you can probably find film other places.

I have shot some 100D and I like it (liked kodachrome better). I have seen 16mm 3D film shot with your equipment (well, not *yours*, but the Bolex set up). The 3D effect is outstanding. The film I saw was shot in the late 1950s or early 1960s and was shot using Kodachrome II. The 3D effect was awesome!!!!!

Head to your local Goodwill store and find a screen. You will see white ones, and silver (or kinda gray ones). That is the one you want. But worse case, you can project your film on a white wall. Keep checking the goodwill and you will find a screen. The best 3D effect is with the proper screen, but you will be able to see 3D with a normal white screen (but not as pronounced).

I have many 16mm projectors. I will sell you one if you want, but shipping is costly. Keep checking the Goodwill for a projector. I can help you find a lamp for just about any projector you buy., Many of the lenses are standard sizes. Probably, any ‘ol 16mm projector will do. When you do find a projector, head to the store and buy some Lemon Pledge furniture polish. Then take a old cotton T Shirt or some old cotton underwear and spray the cloth (not the projector), then open up the gate and wipe down the entire film path. You will probably find some rollers with a screw in the center. Unscrew them, remove them, clean them, then rub some pledge on them. Every guide, every place the film goes. Remember, every time you project your film you will scratch it. Back in the day, Kodak said you had about 200 projections before the film would be scratched up beyond repair. So don’t just keep running your film for no reason at all.

If you are new to 16mm movie film you might like this free pdf book from Kodak:

http://motion.kodak.com/motion/uploadedFiles/H2_Field%20Guide_9-22-08.pdf

Feel free to drop me some email if you have movie film related questions. Enjoy your equipment.

jack

And like every other person posting here

]]> By: Bob England http://www.kylegilman.net/2009/02/18/this-is-bolex-stereo/comment-page-1/#comment-94724 Bob England Sat, 21 Mar 2009 00:15:01 +0000 http://www.kylegilman.net/?p=538#comment-94724 The 3D glasses from Coraline are for the RealD system and will not work. The Bolex Stereo kit uses the older linear-polarized glasses whereas RealD uses newer circular-polarized glasses. However, linear-polarized glasses are widely available online. A Google search for "3D glasses" will return many links like this one: http://www.3dglassesdirect.com/polarized_3d_glasses.html The 3D glasses from Coraline are for the RealD system and will not work. The Bolex Stereo kit uses the older linear-polarized glasses whereas RealD uses newer circular-polarized glasses.
However, linear-polarized glasses are widely available online. A Google search for “3D glasses” will return many links like this one: http://www.3dglassesdirect.com/polarized_3d_glasses.html

]]> By: Kyle http://www.kylegilman.net/2009/02/18/this-is-bolex-stereo/comment-page-1/#comment-94463 Kyle Tue, 03 Mar 2009 16:32:53 +0000 http://www.kylegilman.net/?p=538#comment-94463 No, I want to get it working and make some films with it, not sell it. No, I want to get it working and make some films with it, not sell it.

]]> By: Ryan Nethery http://www.kylegilman.net/2009/02/18/this-is-bolex-stereo/comment-page-1/#comment-94462 Ryan Nethery Tue, 03 Mar 2009 16:29:45 +0000 http://www.kylegilman.net/?p=538#comment-94462 Are you interested in selling this system? Are you interested in selling this system?

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