This is Bolex Stereo
February 18th, 2009
When I graduated from college, my dad and his wife gave me a 16mm Bolex camera from the 1950s. It was a neat gift, but the really unique thing about it was the Stereo Kit that came with it. It was a complete set of stereo lens, projector lens with polarizing filters, and a small silver projection screen. The system works by putting two tall, skinny images side by side on each frame of film. Then when it’s projected, they are offset and overlapped with each one polarized differently, just like a fancy new 3-D movie. Rather than being widescreen though, the image is tall and skinny. Unfortunately in the past I haven’t had the time and money available to get the system going.
The major thing missing right now is a 16mm projector that will take the 3-D lens. I can’t quite figure out what kind of projector it even needs to be. And despite being completely obsolete, they’re not always free. In the research I’ve done over the years I’ve heard that the polarizing filters in the projection lens tend to degrade over time. The projection lens definitely looks a little wonky. If that’s the case, then I’m going to have to figure out how to replace the filters. I’ll have to figure out what orientation they go in since they have to match the orientation of the glasses. I have brand-new 3D glasses provided by Coraline, which I’m pretty sure works on the same principle as the Bolex system.
And of course I’ll need to get a 100′ load of 16mm film and run it through the camera. That’s not exactly free either. Being a wind-up Bolex, sync sound isn’t an option (I also don’t have a dual-system projector lying around, or a way to sync it up in the first place) so I’m thinking a series of silent sight-gags involving things flying at the camera. To save money I’m going to shoot reversal, which I haven’t shot since way back in the year 1999. Apparently Kodak stopped making the higher speed color reversal stock, so I’m considering shooting Tri-X 200D B&W reversal. I’m not entirely sure the system will work with color film anyway. That will be an additional experiment I’m sure. A 100 foot roll costs $25. Processing will probably run another $25. Oh, and I guess I’ll need a light meter. It’s also not clear that the camera will run well without repairs. Last time I looked into it I was told it needed about $200 worth of work on it.
Entry Filed under: Bolex Stereo, News
Are you interested in selling this system?
No, I want to get it working and make some films with it, not sell it.
The 3D glasses from Coraline are for the RealD system and will not work. The Bolex Stereo kit uses the older linear-polarized glasses whereas RealD uses newer circular-polarized glasses.
However, linear-polarized glasses are widely available online. A Google search for “3D glasses” will return many links like this one: http://www.3dglassesdirect.com/polarized_3d_glasses.html
Hi…..
Kodak makes a color reversal film called 100D:
http://motion.kodak.com/US/en/motion/Products/Production/Color_Reversal_Films/5285/tech5285.htm
Kodak just started offering it in 100′ loads that your Bolex will take:
http://motion.kodak.com/motion/uploadedFiles/QA_MotionPictureCatalog_March9_2009.pdf
I like to buy direct from Kodak (they have a 800 number) because you receive fresh film. But you can probably find film other places.
I have shot some 100D and I like it (liked kodachrome better). I have seen 16mm 3D film shot with your equipment (well, not *yours*, but the Bolex set up). The 3D effect is outstanding. The film I saw was shot in the late 1950s or early 1960s and was shot using Kodachrome II. The 3D effect was awesome!!!!!
Head to your local Goodwill store and find a screen. You will see white ones, and silver (or kinda gray ones). That is the one you want. But worse case, you can project your film on a white wall. Keep checking the goodwill and you will find a screen. The best 3D effect is with the proper screen, but you will be able to see 3D with a normal white screen (but not as pronounced).
I have many 16mm projectors. I will sell you one if you want, but shipping is costly. Keep checking the Goodwill for a projector. I can help you find a lamp for just about any projector you buy., Many of the lenses are standard sizes. Probably, any ‘ol 16mm projector will do. When you do find a projector, head to the store and buy some Lemon Pledge furniture polish. Then take a old cotton T Shirt or some old cotton underwear and spray the cloth (not the projector), then open up the gate and wipe down the entire film path. You will probably find some rollers with a screw in the center. Unscrew them, remove them, clean them, then rub some pledge on them. Every guide, every place the film goes. Remember, every time you project your film you will scratch it. Back in the day, Kodak said you had about 200 projections before the film would be scratched up beyond repair. So don’t just keep running your film for no reason at all.
If you are new to 16mm movie film you might like this free pdf book from Kodak:
http://motion.kodak.com/motion/uploadedFiles/H2_Field%20Guide_9-22-08.pdf
Feel free to drop me some email if you have movie film related questions. Enjoy your equipment.
jack
And like every other person posting here
have you any idea what a unit like this is worth? I acquired one with a Bolex 16mm cam with the stereo lens attached a few years ago for $50 and I’m trying to appraise it. Any feedback is appreciated.
When it comes to projection you could do as our stereo club does and put your filters in front of the projection lens. You will probably have to remove the old filters. I’m assuming they are not a coating on the lens but a drop-in type. You can get polarizing filters for projectors through any one of several 3D stereo dealers online (you can also get the glasses through them as well). The filters are generally notched on one corner so you can orient them properly. Make a frame out of cardboard large enough to accommodate both filters side by side, mount the filters in the frame and then hang or stand them in front of the lens. All that is required is that the light passes through the polarizers. They can be in back of, inside, or in front of the lens.
White glass bead screens tend to scatter the light, ruining the polarization. I do know some people who have painted a wall or canvas with metallic silver acrylic latex paint and and had good luck projecting onto that. If you go that route, either spray it on or be sure to roll or brush the paint in one direction only (vertically) as the paint is ‘directional’ and shows every brush stroke or swipe with the roller. Used silver screens aren’t that hard to find. Craigslist is a good source.
I wish I had one of those Bolexes!!! You’re a lucky man!